For the first time, high-altitude guides will face some competition on Everest… from drones.

The Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality, which hosts the 8,848.86 metre-tall Everest, is piloting heavy lifter drones that will bring back garbage from the mighty mountain.

Though officials say that cargo drones will fly on Everest to bring garbage, its success, however, may affect the livelihood of high altitude support staff who navigate the dangerous Khumbu Icefall with tonnes of loads on their backs.

“It’s a test. The success means we will use drones in a full-fledged manner to bring garbage from up to 6,500 metres of Camp II, next season,” said Jagat Prasad Bhusal, chief administrative officer of the rural municipality. “We, however, have not discussed whether drones can be used to transport supplies and logistics to Camp II to reduce casualties on the notorious Khumbu Icefall.”

On April 18, 2014, an avalanche resulting from a falling serac buried 16 Sherpa guides in the Khumbu Icefall that eventually led to the cancellation of the season’s expeditions.

Last year, three Sherpa guides were buried under the ice masses triggered by an avalanche in the Khumbu Icefall. Their bodies have not been recovered.

The Himalayan Database and the government record show that nearly 50 individuals died on the icefall from 1953 to 2023.

All climbers and guides need to navigate the icefall, on the route that leads to the world’s tallest peak, which is so notoriously dangerous that even experienced Sherpas hesitate to move when the sun shines.

The Khumbu Icefall, a river of ice—a kilometre or so—is normally crossed during the night or early morning with climbers putting headlamps on their helmets.

Normally, the route is crossed early in the morning, the time when the ice blocks and the hanging glaciers are stable and avalanche risks are low.

During the day, as the sun warms the mountain, the hanging glaciers begin to melt and ice starts to crumble, causing avalanche risk.

“The Khumbu Icefall has killed many, mostly high-altitude support staff. The drone could prevent growing casualties of mountain guides at least in the stretch of the icefall,” said Bhusal.

From Camp II (6,400m) to the summit, there are less chances for avalanches.

The rural municipality, currently, is piloting the Chinese drone from DJI, which stands for Da-Jiang Innovations technology company headquartered in Shenzhen, Guangdong.

“However, after a successful test, we could buy drones through a competitive bidding process,” said Bhusal.

The drone can fly up to 6,500 metres and carry 30 kg, he said.

This year, Everest is likely to be busy as always, though the number of climbers is expected to drop slightly as compared to last year’s figure.

Rakesh Gurung, director at the Department of Tourism, said they have issued 390 climbing permits as of Monday.

“We expect the number to be slightly over 400 this year,” he said. Last year, the department issued a record 479 Everest climbing permits.

This year, the highest number of permits have been issued for Americans (70), followed by Chinese (65), British (34) and Indians (22). The number of Everest aspirants from India has dropped significantly this year, according to department officials.

The department said that guides have fixed the ropes and ladders up to Camp IV at nearly 8,000 metres on Sunday and the Everest push may formally begin next week.

This year, there are a slew of rules implemented to make climbing safe and manage garbage.

The Department of Tourism, under the federal government rule, has made it mandatory for climbers to be strapped with a tracking chip or a GPS device.

The local government of Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality, on March 4, introduced its own rules by implementing the Base Camp Management Procedure 2024 for the first time.

Under its rules, people at the base camp have been allowed a maximum area of 80 square feet per person to sleep during a mountaineering expedition.

Similarly, a maximum area of 60 square feet per person has been allocated for dining purposes at the base camp.

Attached toilets shall not be placed in the sleeping tents, according to the rule. A maximum of four toilet tents, two shower tents and two urine toilet tents are allowed in each camp for the common use of up to 15 people.

When fixing new ropes for mountaineering, the old ropes must be taken off and brought back to the base camp.

The rural municipality has made it mandatory for the climbers to use poop bags or biodegradable bags above the base camp for proper management and disposal of night soil.

“So far, five expedition teams have brought poop bags. If the team does not bring the bags, it is available in the rural municipality,” said Bhusal.

The municipality-arranged bags cost Rs580 a piece.

A person will not require the bags in base camp, but they have to take the bags in all camps above the base camp. “The rule is simple, no one is allowed to urinate and defecate in the open. We are forced to impose this rule to stop making Everest a minefield of poop,” said Bhusal.

While climbers may not encounter the sight or smell of thawing stool, people downstream who rely on melted snow for drinking water will be more likely to take sips contaminated with dangerous bacteria and parasites.

“The bags have powder or chemicals that will solidify the poops. It has a zip too,” said Bhusal. “We currently have 6,000 bags and that will be enough for this season, which lasts until May-end.”

According to Bhusal, each bag will have a code. “The climbers should bring back the bags, otherwise, they will not be issued a garbage clearance certificate. Without the certificate, climbers will not be able to claim their garbage deposit money. And they will also not get the prestigious certificate of climbing Everest,” said Bhusal.

Anyone visiting Everest has to pay $4,000 as a garbage deposit, and the money is refunded if the person returns with 8 kg of garbage and the bags they have used while climbing.

According to the local government’s rules, in case of the death of a mountaineer, the guides, the trekking and travel agencies concerned shall be responsible for managing the body.

Industry insiders say there has been an increasing trend of leaving the bodies on the mountain though they are covered by insurance.

A mountaineering official said that retrieving a body in the Death Zone is a costly affair. The zone is the part of Everest that lies above 8,000 metres.

Removing bodies from higher camps is expensive and difficult because of the danger of the rarefied (low oxygen) atmosphere. According to mountaineering officials, it may cost $20,000 to $200,000 to bring down a dead body from extreme points.

Most climbers’ bodies are left behind on Everest every year due to the difficulties and cost factors.

According to Gurung, 17 people climbing from the Nepal side died on Everest last spring season and six bodies have yet to be recovered.

Taking into account the cultural sensitivity of the Sagarmatha National Park, which is listed on the UNESCO Natural Heritage Sites list, the picturesque natural scenery and the magnificent Sherpa culture, commercial operation of bars, bakeries, cafes and spas are not allowed at the base camp.

Likewise, bright and flickering lights visible from a distance should not be lit in the base camp. Except in an emergency, the lights in the base camp premises must be compulsorily turned off at night.

According to the department, there have been 8,270 summit ascents from the Nepal side since 1953.